Breaking in water wave models
Presenter
August 20, 2015
Keywords:
- breaking, instability, discontinuity
- water waves modelling
- ocean waves
- ill-posedness
- non-linear PDE
- dispersive PDE
- shallow waves
MSC:
- 35L05
- 76B15
- 74Jxx
- 74J40
- 74J30
- 74J20
- 74J15
- 37L50
- 35G20
Abstract
The surface of an ocean wave, after some time, may become vertical and accelerate infinitely rapidly; thereafter a portion of the surface overturns, projects forward and forms a jet of water. Think of the stunning Hokusai wave. The complexity of the governing equations of the water wave problem, however, prevents a detailed account of "breaking." Whitham in the 1970s conjectured that a model combining the water wave dispersion and a nonlinearity of the shallow water equations would capture the phenomenon. I will present its proof and use Whitham's model to illustrate the Benjamin-Feir instability of Stokes' periodic waves in water. I will discuss breaking, instabilities and ill-posedness for related, nonlinear dispersive equations.